ALLOW ME A RANT

Chicago and its suburbs, my metropolitan area, has been the home of only a few Jewish delis worthy of the name and steeped in the tradition -- among them, Manny's. Eleven City Diner, The Bagel, and in the suburbs: Max's and Max & Benny's. To that list, recent additions Half Sour, JB's Deli and Steingold's have continued the traditional with the latter stretching the definition honorably. All of these believe in over-stuffed sandwiches teeming with lox (sadly only a few offer anything even approaching the hand sliced smoked salmon available in NYC and LA) and bagels, corned beef and pastrami, Reuben sandwiches my mother would never have permitted to enter my mouth, latkes, white fish salad, blintzes, stuffed cabbage,creamed herring and one version or another of matzo ball soup among so many other dishes. 

OK, so the tradition continues, reduced in number but offering a connection to the Jewish delis of old, though none of these are Kosher. (I recently enjoyed a spectacular pastrami sandwich at a New York deli that proudly shown a lighted "Kosher" sign in its window. When I asked how that could be as they offered a full menu on Shabbat, I was answered with a "Shhhh.") 

I love traditional deli food even as age and infirmity have limited my consumption.

To my horror, however, new restaurants are arriving on the Chicago scene that play off the deli theme in ways that confuse even horrify me. First, Sam & Gertie's, advertised as "the world's first vegan Jewish deli." This is oxymoronic, an insult to the traditions -- were there a "Deli Certifying Agency," Sam & Gertie's would be forever barred from claiming the title of "deli." (I don't know what "Laks" is; I just know that it ain't lox.) 

And, just today I read in Chicago Eater that "A Contemporary Jewish Deli With Blue Corn Matzo Ball Soup Will Soon Debut in the West Loop." Friends, when God first made chicken matzo ball soup did she ever dream that we would need an "improvement" over the original. I don't think so and -- we don't. At this Rye Deli and Drink:

"The bagel selection features flavors including za’atar, Maldon sea salt and thyme, oat sunflower seed and pepita, and more." 

I'm telling you, friends, I wish all of these places well but, more so, those Jewish delis that show their respect for deli traditions by adhering to them.

I guess you do not have to be reminded: I am a dinosaur.

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I have loved all of your Comments -- on- and off-line. Especially the Last Comment but all of them.

Those of you who offered me your observations on the "appetizing" dairy restaurants brought back a memory that I wanted to share.

In 1997 I was ending my terms as UJA National Campaign Chair. As was our UJA tradition, we organized a celebratory "thank you" dinner for our leadership. My wife, Bobbi, shopped for an appropriate venue -- one that would be kosher or dairy and historically Jewish. She chose Ratner's, z'l, on the Lower East Side; run-down, full of the flavor, the tam, of a different time. 

We had a private room packed with the UJA lay and professional leaders and spouses, a wonderful evening, and pretty good food -- so many traditional dishes, the tables practically groaned. The dinner was topped off with a large layer cake with aome appropriate inscription coupled with "Richard" emblazoned on the frosting. It took a long time to say good-bye that night and as Bobbi and I left the restaurant, there in the display cake was what was left of my cake...for sale!!

Ratner's was already struggling to remain open -- which it did in 2004. I assume my lefrtover cake was still there, begging to be sold.

New York!!

Rwexler